Hardwood Floor Refinishing and Sanding in Georgia

Sanding and refinishing removes the worn finish, scratches and gray traffic paths from a hardwood floor and seals the bare wood with a new finish, often in a different color. For many homes it brings an existing floor back without the cost of replacing it. This page explains how hardwood floor refinishing is assessed and carried out across metro Atlanta, with links to our page for each city.

Can your floor be sanded?

The first check is how much wood is left above the tongue. Solid hardwood can usually be sanded several times over its life, but each full sanding removes a thin layer. Exposed nail heads or tongues showing between boards are signs that a floor is near the end of its sanding life.

Engineered hardwood has a real wood veneer over a plywood or fiberboard core, and the veneer thickness decides whether it can be sanded at all. Thick veneers can take a careful sanding; very thin ones can only be cleaned and recoated. Pulling a floor vent or looking at a stair edge often shows the layers.

Full sanding or screen and recoat

If the finish is dull and lightly scratched but the wood itself is not worn or stained, a screen and recoat may be enough: the existing finish is abraded and a fresh coat is applied. It does not remove deep scratches, water marks or a color you no longer like. A full sanding goes down to bare wood, which allows repairs, a new stain color and a fresh start for the finish.

Repairs before sanding

Loose boards are refastened, badly damaged or stained boards are cut out and replaced with matching wood, and large gaps are filled where appropriate. Pet stains that have soaked deep into the wood usually do not sand out, so replacing those boards is often the cleaner fix. Patches blend best when they are done before sanding, so the whole floor is leveled and finished together.

Sanding, stain and finish

Sanding moves from coarse to fine grits with a drum or belt sander on the open floor and an edger along the walls, with hand scraping in corners. Skipping grits leaves marks that show once stain goes on.

Stain color should be chosen from samples applied to your own sanded floor, because the same stain looks different on red oak, white oak and other species. For the topcoat, water-based polyurethane dries clear and has less odor, while oil-based polyurethane adds an amber tone that deepens over time. Each coat needs its full drying time before the next, and furniture and rugs should go back only when the finish maker says it is ready.

The written estimate

A clear estimate lists the square footage, stairs and landings priced separately, the sanding approach, board replacements or other repairs, stain or natural finish, the type and number of finish coats, furniture moving and how dust and access to the rooms will be handled. If boards turn out to be thinner than expected or damage is found under rugs, the change is explained and agreed in writing before the work continues.

Related work and permits

If the floor cannot be sanded again or you want wood in more rooms, our hardwood and engineered floor installation page covers new floors. Refinishing on its own is surface work; if the project grows into subfloor replacement or structural repair, check with your city or county building department whether a permit is needed.

Hardwood floor refinishing by city

Find your city below for a page about floor sanding and refinishing there.

Frequently asked questions about floor refinishing

How do I know if my floor needs a full sanding or just a recoat?

Look at the damage. If the floor is dull with fine surface scratches but the color is even and the wood is not worn through, a screen and recoat can refresh it. Gray worn paths, deep scratches, dark water marks or a color change all call for sanding to bare wood. A quick test on a hidden spot can also show whether a recoat will bond to the old finish.

Can engineered hardwood be refinished?

It depends on the thickness of the top wood layer. Engineered floors with a thick veneer can usually be sanded at least once, carefully, while those with a very thin veneer can only be screened and recoated. Removing a floor vent or a threshold usually lets you see the layers, and the flooring maker’s specifications list the veneer thickness if you know the product.

Should I choose water-based or oil-based polyurethane?

Both protect the floor; the difference is mainly appearance and odor. Water-based finishes dry clear, keep light woods looking light and have less smell. Oil-based finishes add a warm amber tone that deepens over the years and give off stronger fumes while curing. Ask to see both on a sample of your own floor before deciding.

Get your floors looked at

Call 404-409-4448 to describe your floors and the rooms involved. We can visit to check the wood, talk through sanding or recoating and prepare a written estimate.