Tile Flooring Installation in Georgia

Tile flooring is hard, water-resistant and long-lasting, which is why it is common in bathrooms, kitchens, laundry rooms and entries. How well a tile floor holds up depends mostly on what is underneath it and how carefully it is laid out and set. This page explains tile floor installation for homeowners across metro Atlanta; the city pages are listed near the end.

Porcelain, ceramic or natural stone

Porcelain tile is dense and absorbs very little water, so it suits wet areas and busy floors, and it is made in many sizes and looks, including wood-look planks. Ceramic tile is softer and easier to cut, and it works well in rooms with light to moderate traffic. Natural stone, such as marble, travertine or slate, varies from piece to piece, usually needs sealing and can be scratched or etched by acidic spills.

Tile size affects the work. Large-format tiles have fewer grout lines but need a flatter floor, and long planks can bow slightly, which is why manufacturers often recommend a limited offset rather than a half-length stagger.

What goes under the tile

Tile is rigid, so the floor beneath it must be stiff and flat. Over a wood subfloor, the framing is checked for bounce, and cement backer board or an uncoupling membrane is installed over the plywood according to the product’s instructions. Natural stone generally calls for a stiffer floor than porcelain or ceramic. Concrete slabs are checked for cracks, which may need a crack-isolation membrane, and for high spots or dips that need grinding or self-leveling compound.

Skipping this preparation is a common reason for cracked tiles and grout, hollow-sounding spots and uneven edges, called lippage, between tiles.

Layout, setting and grout

Layout is planned before any tile is set. Starting lines are snapped so the rows look straight from the main doorway, and cuts are balanced so no edge ends up with a thin sliver. Tile is set in thinset mortar with a notched trowel sized for the tile, and larger tiles are often back-buttered so the mortar covers the full back. Leveling clips can help keep large tiles flush.

After the mortar cures, joints are filled with grout. Cement-based grout is common and is usually sealed; epoxy and other ready-mixed grouts resist stains better but handle differently. Grout color is a design choice too: a close match makes the floor look continuous, while contrast shows off the pattern. Natural stone is sealed as its maker recommends.

Order of work

The old floor is removed, the subfloor repaired and prepared, and any membrane installed. Then come layout, setting, curing, grouting and sealing, followed by thresholds, transitions and baseboards. Toilets and appliances are reset once the floor is ready. Doors may need trimming if the new floor is higher than the old one.

Reading a tile estimate

A clear estimate lists the tile area and the extra ordered for cuts and breakage, removal of the old flooring, subfloor repair, backer board or membrane, leveling, the tile pattern, thinset and grout type, sealing, transitions, baseboard work and the resetting of fixtures. Patterns like herringbone take more cutting and time than a straight lay, and the estimate should reflect that. Problems found under the old floor are described and agreed in writing before they are fixed.

Permits and related projects

If the project includes moving plumbing, adding a heated floor circuit or structural repair, your city or county building department can say whether a permit is needed. For a full bathroom project, see our bathroom remodeling page, and if you are comparing tile with a softer, warmer floor, the vinyl and LVP flooring page.

Tile flooring installation by city

Tile floor installation pages for each city we serve are listed below.

Frequently asked questions about tile floors

Can new tile be installed over an existing tile floor?

Sometimes, if the old tile is firmly stuck down, flat and free of cracks, and the added height works at doorways, cabinets and appliances. The surface has to be cleaned and prepared so the new thinset bonds. In many cases removing the old tile is still the better choice, because it reveals any subfloor damage and keeps the floor height down.

Why do some tile floors crack after installation?

Most cracks trace back to what is under the tile. A wood subfloor that flexes, a slab crack that keeps moving, or thinset that did not fully cover the back of the tile can all leave tiles unsupported. Missing movement joints at walls and in large rooms can also cause cracking. Checking stiffness and flatness and using the right membrane help prevent it.

Does grout need to be sealed?

Cement-based grout is porous, so sealing it helps it resist stains and makes cleaning easier, especially in kitchens and entries. The sealer is applied after the grout has cured for the time its maker states and usually needs renewing over the years. Epoxy and some ready-mixed grouts are designed not to need a sealer; check the product’s instructions to be sure.

Plan your tile floor

Call 404-409-4448 to tell us about the room and the tile you are considering. We can arrange a visit to check the subfloor, talk through layout and grout choices and prepare a written estimate.